Glycol Distearate (Flakes | Pearlizing Agents)

The primary function is as a pearlising and opacifying agent. Glycol Distearate forms lamellar (plate-like) crystals within the surfactant matrix that scatter light, creating a lustrous mother-of-pearl appearance. It also increases viscosity and adds a silky, emollient skin feel to rinse-off formulations.

Glycol Distearate is melted into the surfactant base at 60–70°C, ensuring full dissolution. The hot mixture is then cooled slowly (typically 0.5–1°C/minute) under gentle stirring. Controlled cooling allows Glycol Distearate to recrystallise as uniform, flat lamellar platelets suspended in the surfactant matrix, creating the stable pearl effect. Rapid cooling produces hazy or irregular crystals with poor pearlescence.

Glycol Distearate is typically used at 1–4% w/w in shampoo formulations, depending on the desired intensity of pearl. Higher concentrations (3–4%) produce an opaque, dense pearl. Lower concentrations (1–2%) produce a translucent, subtle shimmer. It is usually combined with Laureth-4 (1–2%) to aid dispersion and crystal formation.

Glycol Distearate performs best when combined with a carrier surfactant such as Laureth-4 or Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). The carrier aids in dispersing the Glycol Distearate crystals evenly throughout the formulation. A classic pearlising premix consists of Glycol Distearate + Laureth-4 + water (or CAPB), which is added to the surfactant base as a single component.

Yes. Glycol Distearate and Ethylene Glycol Distearate (EGDS) are the same compound. The INCI name is Glycol Distearate and the chemical name is Ethylene Glycol Distearate. CAS number 627-83-8 applies to both names.

While Glycol Distearate is primarily a pearlising and opacifying agent, it provides mild emollient and slip properties due to its fatty acid (stearic acid) ester structure. In rinse-off products, this contributes to a smooth, conditioning after-feel. In leave-on formulations such as creams, it provides light occlusive moisturisation.

Glycol Distearate is non-ionic and compatible with all major surfactant classes — anionic (SLES, SLS), cationic (quats), amphoteric (betaines, sultaines), and non-ionic surfactants. This broad compatibility makes it suitable for use in diverse shampoo, body wash, and liquid soap formulations.

Yes. In conditioners, Glycol Distearate acts as a consistency factor and opacifier, providing a pearlescent or creamy white appearance. In cream and lotion formulations, it is used as a co-emulsifier and emollient wax, contributing to the texture, body, and skin feel of the finished product.

Pharcos Glycol Distearate is a white to off-white waxy solid with a melting point of approximately 60–65°C. It is available in flake or pastille form for easy weighing and handling in production.

Glycol Distearate has been reviewed and approved as safe for cosmetic use by the CIR Expert Panel. It is non-toxic, non-irritating, and non-sensitising at typical cosmetic concentrations. It is an accepted INCI ingredient globally and is permitted in all major cosmetic regulatory frameworks including EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.